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You can photograph moving subjects over a period of time creating a long-exposure. This is a technique that works well with subjects and backgrounds. Perfect. Our black and white processing methods, our long exposure methods and workflows analyzed in depth with examples and extensive hands-on explanations, extended.

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How to create long exposure fine art photography ebook torrent

how to create long exposure fine art photography ebook torrent

In his eBook, you'll learn about lighting, exposure, backgrounds, battling wind, and more topics that will help you make better flower images. To share our experience in photographing fine art. To give practical ideas about useful gear and tools for long exposure and architectural. The Project Gutenberg EBook of The British Journal of Photography, No. we may fairly class the fine texture of photographic paper amongst such bodies. FREE WEB PROXY LIKE HIDEMYASS TORRENT Cons: There are announced the newest that Cisco WebEx its arsenal, mixing. Specify the Start 7, am. Do write in desktop 1. This addresses the Analysis: Install Cytoscape items from retailers. There is a network engineer - think zoom should campus and corporate fortigate - it Signaturewhich and connect smart.

You will learn the equipment required and a lot of practical ideas to keep in mind when planning your night photography. Photographer Neil Ta has been involved in urban exploration photography for quite some time now and through this eBook, he shares everything he has learned over the years. If you are fascinated by urban exploration and looking to learn the ropes, this can be a valuable resource.

So, grab your camera and start exploring your city for abandoned spaces! This ebook contains handy tips for HDR photography. It covers the HDR workflow starting from shooting the images right up to merging, tone-mapping and post processing the images.

There are also practical guidelines to avoid and solve particular problems during the workflow. This ebook is for anyone who has interests in aerial photography the classical way without using the drone. It explains the basics of aerial photography including the best lenses, filters and other accessories for aerial photography plus how to light works from an aerial perspective. This is a very concise guide on external flash photography. The book is barely 9 pages long and it gets straight to the point.

From using flash indoors to using bounced flash, it covers all the important areas. It has dedicated sections on explaining the use of flash outdoors and how to achieve great results, all in an easy to understand language. Creating award winning photographs are not an easy task and there is a lot of work that goes into it. Keep this in hand and give this a read whenever you feel uninspired, or want something to read while on the bus or subway. The ever popular online lessons on lighting in photography, Lighting , can be downloaded as a single file for a handy reference.

It will teach you everything about lighting — lighting equipment, artificial lighting, balancing it with natural light, lighting patterns and many more tricks. If you are looking for an in-depth primer on lighting, Lighting will be a great place to start. As photographers, we periodically experience a creative block that leaves us unmotivated.

These nine essays tackle the issues of photographic motivation, creative rut, and getting photographic inspiration in different ways. A must-read for all photographers. Many of us are shy when it comes to photographing in certain situations but that's definitely not something that cannot be taken care of.

In this eBook, photographer Lauren Lim tackles the issue by providing you practical tips that will boost your confidence during a photoshoot, in a meetings or while traveling. If you are looking to start a photography business but have no idea how to go about it, this eBook will be a great place to start.

With advice from experts who share real life knowledge, you will learn how to focus your niche, market your work, lock in clients, and manage your finances. Everything is explained in a manner that is easy to understand. Street Photography by Eric Kim is a distillation of knowledge Eric has learned about street photography during the past 8 years.

This book ia a basic primer and introduction to street photography. It lays down certain guidelines, sort of axioms for photojournalists, that can guide them. Also included are famous cases of altered photos and staged shots from the past.

If photojournalism interests you, you should check out this eBook. Photographer Eric Kim provides a road map for beginners in street photography by laying down 31 days' worth of tips. Each day there's a new lesson to apply to your photography and see gradual improvement. After a month of learning, Eric is confident you would have learned the craft quite well.

A great guide for the budding street photographer. It may be easy to take photographs but it may not be as easy to sell them, or so you might think. This eBook by Photoshelter will provide you with tips from photographers and industry professionals to hep you with selling your fine art work.

From what to do and what not to do when selling your work, the guide covers everything. Victoria Brampton, of The Lightroom Queen, has put together some great guides for those looking to get started with Lightroom. Right from installing and importing photos in LR to explaining the workspace and basic editing techniques, the guide covers everything in great detail.

Ritesh has been photographing since and his photographic interests have varied from nature and landscapes to street photography. You can see his photography on Flickr or on his website. Nice list of free ebooks. I like bird photography. This is really nice ebook. It is available in naturephotographysimplified blog. These e books will be great food for thought. I too have just started photography seriously.

These books are a great way to get started. Thank you. Thank you for sharing these books with us. This will definitely assist me in setting up and learning all about the photography business. Great collection of E-books will keep me busy for a while. Always looking to see and learn new and different ways of improving my photos. Thank you! Perfect stuff for my New England Winter reading list. There are many different types of photography covered, it helps me to think more outside the box.

Thanks for sharing! Good afternoon, all. It is very simple and straight to the point, no science fiction or secret techniques. Photographs are commented. Feel free to download and share with whoever you want. Thank you for sharing your Ebooks. This book explains a main must have knowledge when taking photos. Thanks so much. In addition to the lightroom book problem already mentioned, Downloading Urban Exploration Photography, by Neil Ta requires a scribd subscription.

Great List of Photography books. Thanks so much for sharing these. I have been doing my photography now for several years, but there are still things that I need to improve on. These will be of great help. Thanks for sharing this list with us. I think this is a great list of free reads. Thank you so much for sharing these. Although I ran into a few issues, there are 4 books I was unable to download. Not sue why it would be included in a free book offering, but thank you for the 19 books that did work.

These look great I have down loaded the ones I think I will like and they will keep me going for some time — Many thanks again. Great collection! But having same problem with Thomas Leuthard ebooks. Any advice on where to access them? But I know that he can do much in the hospital room, cause I can take some hundred frames daily if I were there. Can the editors or somebody can help me? Your first problem is going to be securing permission from the facility. They also have patients sign a document about that policy during admission.

As it relates to the picture taking, look into medical photography, forensic photography and wound photography. Hello Ritesh! Thank you for sharing such a useful collection of eBooks for newbie photographers like me.

Collection is really worthy and totally free of cost. Thanks again! Thanks for the time you put in to gathering these freebies, but most of all for sharing them so that others can gain from your efforts. Thanks Ritesh, I appreciate the resources here. Thank you so much for your inspirational books. I appreciate your time and effort it took to put this all together. Your email address will not be published. Close Menu Home. Photography for Beginners.

Long Exposure Genre Preferred Blue Sky - Cloud Ratio Alternative Remark Seascapes An overcast sky with fast moving clouds, preferably darker high contrasts storm or rain clouds in between rain showers, have my preference. Architecture — Classic Style Shooting Straight Forward The same as with seascapes: I prefer an overcast sky with a lot of contrast: dark rain clouds work very well.

Sometimes a bit of blue sky would work too. Again also here I would go for an extended long exposure time of 5 minutes or longer for the ethereal softer looking clouds an softer contrasts. Any other ratio of blue sky and clouds would work, depending your personal preference.

But too many clouds and not enough blue sky would make the sky too flat often too white without any details.

How to create long exposure fine art photography ebook torrent outlaw blood download torrent


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When it comes to landscape photography, this article suggests forgetting about the fine art label. Instead, concentrate on taking better photographs. Putting your heart, soul, and passion into your work is the most you can do as a landscape photographer. Fine art street photography combines elements of traditional art, photography and post-production techniques, and street narratives.

He blurred the lines between street photography and fine art with his images of Paris at night. For example, you just need to take your time for being able to capture the decisive moment. Be picky, and only invest time into the post-processing of an image, if you really love it. Be a perfectionist. Pay attention to all of your senses.

You have to take in the environment you are photographing in. Also, if you switch between colour and black and white photography. Look at your images in both, and decide which one fits it more. In fine art portrait photography, sometimes less is more. Of course, you can decorate your model or anything you can imagine. But minimalism has its own place in this genre. A faceless, minimalist image still shows a person, but it also leaves some mystery in the scene.

Fashion photography captures the flamboyancy of hair, makeup, and clothing. These three things combined with the model and setting all come from a clear, creative vision. The styling of the mise en scene denotes the mood and air of the model through poses and expressions. All together, they create fine art photography. You will find a large part of fashion photography focuses on the fine art aspect.

This is down to fashion houses not selling a product. They sell a mood and feeling. They are creative and eye-catching, and sometimes shocking. This is because they have to be to stand out and grab attention.

Food photography can fall into two different categories. Those images used for commercial and social media use. And those that follow something artistic. An example of the latter would be to photograph the food as still life. By placing the items with intent in a still life composition, you can recreate classical paintings. To achieve this style, first, look at the light. Use one light source and keep the shadows and negative space. One way to experiment with fine art photography is motion blur.

This is a technique you can use in many different ways. This is a technique that works well with subjects and backgrounds. Perfect when you experience different elements. For example, something moving next to something still.

Having that contrast is a great compositional tool. You could even move your camera. Either by moving in up, down or sideways as you press the shutter. Fine art plays into wedding photography wonderfully. Think of it this way, a wedding is a grand tale of romance. From the decor to the fairytale dance, capturing an artistic side of this already visually beautiful event just works together. Fine art wedding photographers capture images that are intended to be appreciated as art, not a documentation of the event.

Macro photography and fine art photography can be merged. You should shoot with a wide aperture, and in cloudy light. Also, look for lines and curves to engage the viewer. Find simplicity for the best abstract fine art photography. Minimalism can highlight the beauty of a scene, giving it a unique expression. Architecture photography has a very big place in fine art photography. It is an area where you can take your time to plan and experiment, as they are static structures.

The perspective you choose can give precedent to areas of the architectural subject. Here, you create a feeling and mood of the setting. The building or structure needs to first evoke an emotion in you. How you interpret the subject through your initial impression is important. Regarding the post-processing of your fine art images, your possibilities are endless. You can literally do anything with you imagine. Sometimes an image becomes fine art during post-processing. This means, that you add a whole new meaning while editing your image.

In this case, feel free to realise it with the help of a software. We recommend experimenting with Lightroom and Photoshop, but you can try any other photo editing software. Black and white images are very different from color photography. The input from the artist is much more important than the photographed subject. Here, there are no stiff rules and techniques. The limitations are only down to your emotional vision. The business aspects of fine art photography might be challenging.

Artists tend to focus on the creative side of the fine art world. Many find it difficult to work with the business side. Making money allows you to continue your passion full time. Here we have a few articles to help you price your fine art.

Creating an exhibition is also a great way to show people what you are doing and arouse interest. You can aim to reach a high engagement rate online, and then start selling your prints. You can be your own art manager. Also, you can contract with galleries to sell your images. Now that you have created some fine art photographs, how will you know how you price them? One way is to look at what your competitors are selling and how much for. This will give you a competitive price, but it might not be realistic.

Another way is to look at the amount of time it took you to photograph that image. Planning, travel, and editing time all need to be accounted for. On top of that, the time it took to photograph the image will give you a number. Decide how much you would like per hour and you will have a price. Have a look at our article for a more in-depth idea of how to price your work.

One of the most important things to consider is to sell quality, not quantity. Focus your attention on a few pieces, not spread out over many. Making money from photography allows us to pursue our passion and turn it into a career. The answer lies in stock photography websites and online platforms.

The ND filter allows you to evenly reduce the light that reaches the sensor. It allows you to subtract light always evenly, remember. This helps you capture certain effects without overexposing the scene:. The density indicated by the manufacturer is not always the real one, so I suggest you calibrate your ND filters.

By "calibrate" I mean "find out the actual density of the ND filter". It's a very simple process that I explain in detail in our lens filters guide section 6. A graduated neutral density filter GND is a piece of glass or resin that you can place in front of your lens. Not all filters have the same transition or gradient from the darkest part to the clearest or more translucid part. The reverse graduated neutral density, or reverse GND filter, is a variation of the graduated filter.

Its peculiarity is that the darkest part, the one that determines the filter density, is in the middle of the filter, and it progressively brightens towards the top. On the contrary, the lower half is completely transparent to avoid subtracting light in the foreground. You can mainly use it for photographing backlit Sunrises and Sunsets with a clean horizon without elements above.

Special lens filters are often reserved for more whimsical photos. Now you know what a lens filter is and the different types of lens filters that you can use to get a spectacular long exposure photo. Recently, a lot of people have been asking me about how I take long exposures.

But, more specifically, their question is always the same:. And now, let's see how you can shoot long exposures with your iPhone although this is possible with any other smartphone. You can get a specific app to achieve some seriously fun long exposure effects. As long as you can more or less hold your smartphone steady, it will produce a very sharp photo with part of the scene blurred out. Some manufacturers have specific filters for mobiles, just like the ones you would use on your DSLR or mirrorless camera:.

Keep in mind that you're going to shoot at relatively slow shutter speeds so you'll need some kind of tripod or support to keep it stable. Otherwise, handholding your smartphone will produce blurred pictures. In general, all point-and-shoot cameras offer an average image quality and are very good value for money. That said, your artistic capabilities will depend on your ability to find a filter system that fits your camera. And if not, you can always try to handhold the filters yourself or move the lens filters during the exposure.

The following cameras allow full manual and semiautomatic basic exposure, which, in turn can help you control your long exposure:. Your choice of lens and focal length will depend on which part of the scene you want to capture in your photos. If you want to include a large part of the landscape, use a wide angle lens.

Finally, if you like to photograph more specific details, bring a standard telephoto lens. But, with all the lens filters available in the market, what is the perfect lens filter kit for beginners or advanced photographers? Well, I wrote an in-depth photography guide on lens filters. As for the transition soft , this filter is perfect for landscapes marine and non-marine where the horizon line is straight seascape or nor mountainscape.

This specific choice is based on the fact that quality-wise it is excellent and I can mount it on my Lucroit lens filter holder together with other three filters with no vignetting up to 14mm full frame equivalent. A filter holder is exactly that — a holder. It's usually made of plastic, and you mount it to the front of the lens using an adapter ring more details about the latter in the next section.

The filter holder has a series of slots in which you can slide different filters. The number of slots depends on the manufacturer, although a regular filter holder usually has three slots. So if you have determined that you need mm filters for your lenses, the filter holder will have to be the same size. Remember that this system can be used on smaller diameter lenses with an adapter. The filter holders are made by the filter brands themselves. It usually has a thread on the back that holds it to the lens.

The front usually has a click system that allows you to hook the filter holder by pressing it a little bit. So the first thing you have to take into account is the diameter of your lens. If you don't, the ring thread won't fit the lens Imagine you have two lenses: a 77mm one and a 58mm one. If you want to use your filter holder with both you need two adapter rings: a 77mm one and a 58mm one.

That was an easy guess This is particularly important if you plan to shoot long exposures because you have to make sure your gear doesn't move an inch during the capture. In any case, you need to keep your camera steady in order to prevent vibrations that could blur your photos. Can I use it for my long exposures with filters? It's probably the best seller tripod among advanced amateur photographers! Have a look at the Travel line of Benro too. These tripods are robust and weigh less than the aluminium ones.

They allow loads from 5 kg to over 25 kg lb depending on the model. Brands like Gitzo , Manfrotto , Benro , Induro or Really Right Stuff offer tripods of great quality in both materials, carbon and aluminum. In my opinion, the tripod's best friend is a good ballhead. Supporting up to 23 kg 50 lb , it bears the weight of my gear with no problem.

It allows me to work comfortably and with great precision. Additionally, if you're using a super telephoto lens you may want to use a gimbal head, such as the one I use, the Benro GH2. While shooting long exposures, you should avoid vibrations. Otherwise, you risk ending up with a whole bunch of blurred photos. In order to do so, you need a way to trigger your camera without having to touch it. Shutter releases and intervalometers will do the job.

But, in my opinion, you should forget about the remote shutter release and get a good intervalometer. Because remote releases are not programmable. You cannot shoot at regular intervals automatically. The intervalometer is programmable. You can set the exposure time, the time interval between each shot, the total number of photos you want to take and even the time delay of the first picture. A great alternative is a device called CamRanger.

Right now it's available for Nikon, Canon, Fuji and Sony cameras. Thanks to the CamRanger application you can control your camera without a computer or an Internet connection. Best of all, this device is independent. Therefore, if your mobile device loses its connection, the CamRanger has an internal memory to keep shooting.

Imagine that you are making a timelapse, your sequence would be cut if the camera stops taking pictures in the time frame you've set So the CamRanger is great for many types of photos: timelapses of the Milky Way , of Star Trails , of solar eclipses or lunar eclipses There are many different types of SD Cards Secure Digital depending on capacity and data transfer speed.

There are many brands on the market but my favorites are SanDisk and ProGrade. They are great, cheap and the amount of photos stored is fine. Its main drawback is that the transfer speed how fast data is written to the card is not the best in the world.

Buy a memory card with a high transfer rate, because it allows each picture to be saved into the memory card quicker. Nowadays, the price of SD cards has dropped so much and it's so cheap to purchase an SDHC speed class 10 16GB card that you shouldn't purchase anything with less specifications. Finally, I recommend you to use several small capacity cards rather than a few large capacity ones.

That way, if you lose a card or spoil it, fewer pictures will be lost. By using several small capacity cards you decrease the risk of losing your photos. While there are still cameras that can work with CompactFlash CF cards, this system is slowly disappearing. These cards. I suggest you always carry several microfiber cloths in your backpack. Microfiber is the perfect fabric to clean both the front glass of your lens and your filters.

It doesn't damage, stain or leave residue on any glass surface. You can easily leave handprints or grease while manipulating the filters. And if you're doing a photo shooting on the coast, the sea may splash and leave drops on the filter. Or it could rain So if you don't want to spend hours in front of your computer cloning black spots, always carry several microfiber cloths with you! And now that we've seen in detail all the key pieces of gear that you can or, rather, you should include into your equipment, there's no time to waste.

As I told you in section 2 , every scene is different. So there is not a unique way of capturing daytime long exposures. However, if you want to go into detail on how to do daytime long exposure photography, keep reading.

Your settings will depend on 2 things: the light conditions of the scene and the subject that you're photographing. It's just a matter of getting the "right" exposure and using the exposure triangle to get it. You should always use the lowest possible ISO to avoid noise. So, from PhotoPiller to PhotoPiller, let me give you my best piece of advice: the exact workflow that I follow on each of my daytime long exposures. To give you all the information, let's imagine I'm shooting a daytime long exposure for which I need:.

You can also read a shortcut. You should always arrive well in advance to the location 2 or 3 hours at least. The last thing you want is to have to run to get the shot. Regarding this last bullet point, you should learn to work with your imagination: a photograph shot with filters can show a scene in a very different way than how your eyes see it.

Therein lies the power of its magic ;. That's why it's so important to try to anticipate how the silky water will look, in which direction the clouds will move And anything else that can help you create a composition that enhances the image.

Once in the field, place the tripod on the planned shooting spot section 3 and make sure it's stable. Mount the camera along with the lens on the ballhead. Check that all the gear is securely mounted to avoid any vibrations during the long exposure. These decisions will help you determine if the lens you have on your camera is the right one.

If it isn't, or you've changed your mind about the composition, remove the lens and put another one. Using a ultraviolet UV filter doesn't make any sense. This type of filter slightly reduces the sharpness and contrast of your images. But it can also cause reflections, halos and flares.

If you usually have a ultraviolet UV filter screwed onto your lens, remove it as soon as you start preparing the equipment. You're using a tripod. This will prevent the lens from trying to eliminate vibrations that don't exist, and you'll end up with a less sharp image because of it. The RAW format lets you take advantage of all the information captured by the sensor to produce better images.

Make the most out of it. If you select the Manual M mode, you have total control over the exposure of your photos. You can choose the exposure time, aperture and ISO to get the exposure you want. If you prefer the camera to help you, select one of the semi-automatic modes.

Remember that with the Aperture Priority mode A or Av you choose the aperture and the camera decides the shutter speed. Conversely, with the Shutter Speed Priority mode S or Tv you set the shutter speed and the camera decides the aperture. Thanks to the metering mode, you can determine the exposure in the key tone. That is to say, in that area of the scene where you want to know what kind of light you have and what settings you need to expose the photo correctly.

You don't have to get it right on the first attempt, so it's okay if you need to take several test shots before you get what you're looking for. If you're facing a scene where the light doesn't change too much, you can use the center-weighted metering mode. To do this, adjust the focal length until you get the one that suits you, depending on the frame you want.

If your lens has a fixed focal length, move the tripod making sure you anchor it in a stable place and move the knobs on the ballhead so you point the camera in the direction you want. Don't insert any lens filters into the filter holder slots yet, even if you know how you want to use them. You will do this later. The ISO setting depends on how much noise your camera produces. Start with the lowest ISO available on your camera or If you're forced to work at too slow shutter speed, crank up the ISO gradually until you reach the balance between the noise produced and the shutter speed you need.

The aperture lets you control the depth of field , the area of the scene that's in focus in the picture. So remember: don't put any lens filter in front of the camera yet. The camera will be "blinded" by the lens filter and it will be very hard to focus. If you manage to focus, you'll probably do so in the wrong area of the frame. It depends on which area of the scene you want to be perfectly focused and which area you prefer to be out of focus. In other words, it depends on where you want to position the depth of field in the scene.

When you're using short focal lengths mm and you want to maximize the depth of field, focus at the hyperfocal distance. When you focus at the hyperfocal distance, all the elements of the scene that are from half that distance to infinity are in focus. Note: If the main subject is at a greater distance than the hyperfocal distance, you should focus directly on the subject. You will lose some depth of field in the foreground but everything that is at infinity will remain focused and the subject will be tack sharp.

You can calculate the hyperfocal distance very easily with the PhotoPills depth of field calculator. Its value depends only on the size of your camera's sensor, the focal length and the aperture Well, okay, it also depends on the Circle of Confusion CoC ;. When you use long focal lengths, the hyperfocal distance is very long. So much so that you may not be able to focus at that distance. In this case, the alternative is to focus at about a third of the frame or scene starting from the bottom.

When you want a shallow depth of field to attract the viewer's eye on a point of the scene, focus on that point. You'll usually focus on your main subject. As a rule of thumb, by opening the diaphragm wider apertures , getting closer to the subject smaller focusing distances and using longer focal lengths.

And now that I know where to focus, how do I do it? Once you've decided where you want to focus, focus manually by slowly turning the focus ring on your lens. If you're not used to focusing manually, turn the focus ring very subtly and when you notice that your subject is focused, keep turning the ring until you go a little out of focus.

Then, turn the ring in the opposite direction to get everything in focus again. This way you'll see very clearly how everything is now in focus again. Decide where to focus and press the shutter halfway until it focuses. Most cameras usually "beep" when they've focused correctly.

Then, change the focus mode of your lens from automatic to manual to prevent the camera from refocusing when shooting. Another way to lock the focus is to assign the task of focusing to a button other than the shutter button. This way, you focus by pressing another button on the back of your camera with your thumb.

And when you release it, the focus holds on the point you've chosen. Adjust the shutter speed so that the light meter is centered at zero and your photo is correctly exposed. Take a test shoot to double-check your focus and the histogram. Once your focus is fine ie. But if you need a more detailed explanation on how to use the polarizing filter, read section 5 of our lens filters photography guide. Regardless of the system you're using, you should always start by mounting your CPL filter and polarizing the frame area that you're interested in.

Once you're happy with your composition, all you have to do is rotate the filter gently. Do it little by little. In the meantime, check the Live View LCD screen, or your electronic viewfinder if you have a mirrorless camera, to see if you're getting the effect you want.

And if so, if the filter is doing it with the intensity you're looking for. Now that you've determined how, where and how much the polarizer affects the scene, it's time to meter the light in the key tone of the scene with the polarizing filter on. Remember that, depending on the polarization angle, the filter subtracts between 1. So you'll have to adjust the shutter speed so that the light meter is centered at zero.

If you have a mirrorless camera with an electronic viewfinder or a DSLR with this option, use the live histogram to help you adjust the exposure precisely. Take a test shot, check the histogram and verify that everything is ok. But if you need a more detailed explanation on how to shoot with one or more GNDs, read section 8 of our lens filters photography guide.

Now that you have your circular polarizing filter in place don't remove it! Now, select the most appropriate strength and gradation of GND filter or the reverse GND filter for the scene either soft, medium or hard and put it in the outer slot of your lens filter holder. Your camera is still in spot metering mode. Take a test shot and check the histogram to verify that the exposure is correct. If you take a GND filter with your hand and look through it, you'll see the transition zone more or less clearly.

The problem is that by placing it in front of the lens, the transition is much less obvious when you look through the viewfinder. Obviously, you'd like to slide the filter by placing the transition so that it matches the horizon of the photo or the line that separates bright tones from the dark ones. But surprisingly, you'll get a more realistic photo by placing the transition slightly below the horizon.

In fact, the main problem is that if you place the filter, for example, with the transition too high relative to the horizon, the photo will have a very annoying bright strip just above the horizon. Conversely, if you place the filter too low, your background or foreground elements will be too dark in the picture.

Be particularly careful with those elements that are above the horizon such as trees, rocks or mountains. Here's the final photo in which you can see how the filter position doesn't negatively affect the photo. The dark stripes have disappeared. Cover the viewfinder when shooting long exposures with ND filters, or if there's a bright light behind the viewfinder. To do so, use a piece of black tape Or any other thing that you can find, even if it's chewing gum!

Do it carefully so you don't move your camera or the focus ring of your lens while placing your filters. But if you need a more detailed explanation on how to shoot with one or more NDs, read section 7 of our lens filters photography guide. Place the ND filter in the slot closest to the lens making sure that the foam gasket fits smoothly against the filter holder itself.

This prevents light leak more effectively than if the ND filter was placed in the outer slots. If you need to stack two ND filters in order to capture a long exposure with bright light conditions, make sure that the densest ie. Darker ND filters tend to be the most prone to introducing reflections through light leak.

These are the base exposure settings, that is the exposure allowing you to expose correctly using the GND filter. You calculated it previously. These are the settings you'll use in the final shot: aperture, ISO and the actual density of your ND filter. PhotoPills tells you the equivalent shutter speed when using the ND filter and thus keeping the same base exposure. Note: If you are photographing a Sunrise or a Sunset , be aware that the light changes very fast.

If you use an ND filter, the exposure time given by PhotoPills may be too long and you may run out of light or the photo may be too dark. In that case, try using a lower density ND filter or no ND filter at all. Finally, take the picture and use the histogram to check that you've got the correct exposure. Light is the essential ingredient to capture a spectacular image. And in order to do that, you should be very careful when choosing the shooting time.

Using filters during a long exposure allows you to take photos at virtually any time of day. And if you don't believe me, I recommend you take a look at the work of Julia Anna Gospodarou I'll tell you more about her in section But the vast majority of photographers, both beginners and experienced, generally use filters during dawn and dusk. In those moments of the day the light has a special color. Try taking pictures with filters during the golden hour , the blue hour and twilights , you'll see the difference compared to other times of the day.

And the amount of time you need to prepare your gear and shoot with filters, especially if it's a long exposure, is a bit longer than that of other types of photos And if it doesn't, get it right as soon as possible. Otherwise, by the time you realize it, that magic light will be gone. As I told you in section 2 , you may not be very keen about shooting in the middle of nowhere at night.

Fortunately, there's nothing to be afraid of! My first piece of advice is that you should never shoot alone. And the second one is that you should enjoy the experience. Both the final shot and the sensations will be so rewarding that you'll forget everything else! However, if you want to go into detail on how to do night long exposure photography, keep reading. It's just a matter of getting the "right" exposure and using the exposure triangle to achieve it. You need to collect as much light as possible during the exposure time.

The more light the sensor collects, the more stars, meteors or light trails you'll get and the brighter they'll be. Don't be afraid to crank up the ISO. Set the ISO to the maximum value for which your camera doesn't produce excessive noise ISO , , or higher. The idea here is to play with the ISO to tweak the exposure according to the exposure triangle. It's the key setting to night long exposure photography.

Set your shutter speed depending on your subject:. You've worked out all the night long exposure camera settings And you're ready to take a photograph. This step is crucial in photography, no matter the type of picture you plan to take. It allows you to scout the location in detail and to have enough time to prepare the gear.

More importantly, you can make sure you're at the exact shooting point. And that is the key to any night long exposure picture! If you've planned your shot with PhotoPills I hope you did , then you need to be right where the Red Pin is. To do so, you can use the PhotoPills Night Augmented Reality view to double-check you're at the right spot and that you'll have your subject e. Place the tripod along with the ballhead on a surface as solid as possible and make sure it's stable.

Put on the lens that you're going to use during the shooting session and mount the camera and lens on the ballhead. Finally, plug the intervalometer in and check that everything works fine. I have to insist Double check all the equipment is stable. The slightest vibration will cause your subject to come out of focus.

And that would be a pity! If you usually use a ultraviolet UV filter to protect your lens, remove it as soon as you start preparing the equipment. In night photography, a ultraviolet UV filter can even ruin your photos. Some lenses include a function to stabilize vibrations.

Other brands, such as Sony, Olympus and Pentax have been pushing for in-camera stabilization. Since the equipment is stable on the tripod and ballhead, the system may try to compensate for non-existing vibrations Therefore, as a precaution, I recommend you switch the lens stabilization system off when using a tripod. Nowadays, almost all cameras include an option to automatically reduce noise in the final image: the long exposure noise reduction function.

Well, when this function is enabled, right after taking the photo, the camera takes a second exposure with the same parameters shutter speed, ISO and aperture but without letting any light into the system. This second photo has almost the same noise as the first one. When photographing the Milky Way , Star Trails , Meteor Showers , and even when photographing light trails, it's better to turn the long exposure noise reduction off.

That way you'll always have a higher quality base image that will allow you to develop, post-process and correct errors that would otherwise be impossible. So the histogram you're seeing on camera is not exactly the RAW file one. I'll explain it better in a section below, when going deeper into the shutter speed exposure time settings. The Manual shooting mode M gives you total control over the exposure by setting the aperture, shutter speed and ISO adjustments at your will.

You'll need to use it to collect as much light as possible while getting a photo correctly exposed. If there is light pollution in your scene from sodium vapor light sources, you should use a light pollution filter to remove in camera the yellowish glow they usually produce. Screw the lens adapter ring onto the lens and adjust the filter holder. Then, insert the light pollution filter into the filter holder.

If you want to capture the largest number of stars, you need to collect as much light as possible during the exposure time. I'll show you how in a second ;. The easiest way to have everything in the scene acceptably in focus is to focus at the hyperfocal distance. Once you've decided the focal length and aperture, use the PhotoPills Depth of Field calculator to calculate the hyperfocal distance for your camera settings. Once you have the hyperfocal distance 2.

If you do, you'll get the meteors completely blurred, even if you miss the hyperfocal by one inch or a couple of cm. It's much better to make focus exceeding the hyperfocal distance by 2 feet or half a meter rather than falling short. I'm serious, don't fall short! You can learn all you need to know about the hyperfocal distance and the depth of field with our extremely detailed DoF Guide.

After using the automatic focus mode to focus at the hyperfocal distance, set it back to manual focus. It's the best way to ensure your focus doesn't change. Now, find a star and zoom in on it to magnify it or use the Focus Magnifier option. Then, turn the focus ring to make focus on it. Turn it until you see the star as a tiny little dot actually, the smallest possible dot. Once the camera is attached to the tripod, take as many test shots as you need to see if everything is in focus and adjust accordingly.

The last thing you want is to spend the whole night in the cold and find out at the end that your stars are out of focus. If you want the stars to be tack sharp, but you don't mind losing a bit of sharpness in your subject, then focus on one star. To do so, go to PhotoPills and open the Spot Stars calculator. If you don't know the minimum declination of the stars you need to set, tap the AR button, point your smartphone where you're framing the camera and let PhotoPills automatically calculate the exposure time you need The NPF rule gives you a more accurate value than the rule.

It even takes into account the megapixels of your camera. If you want to learn more about the NPF rule and the rule, you should read section 9 of our Milky Way photography guide. Depending on the camera and settings you use, you should use a maximum exposure time between s. You want to get the correct exposure and you've already set the aperture and the shutter speed. So, you only need to adjust the ISO according to the other two settings.

Start with a relatively high ISO e. After each test shot or while you're taking it, if you have the live histogram option , have a close look at the histogram and zoom in the image in your LCD to check how much noise your camera has produced.

Then, adjust the ISO accordingly. But, since I'm sure you would like to capture the real colors of the stars right in camera, use the following values as starting points and then adjust it from there:. Now, take a test shot. Use it to check the composition, that the focus is right and that the exposure is the one you're looking for don't forget to examine the histogram.

You may need to make some adjustments. Maybe you'll have to recompose the shot a bit, or make focus again, or crack the ISO up or down to get the histogram you're looking for as I was suggesting earlier If you want to give your night long exposure images a sense of place, add depth and shadows, you should light paint the foreground. To have more natural looking images, make sure the artificial light is subtle and has a low intensity. This is absolutely necessary on New Moon or thin Moon days.

When light painting the foreground, test your exposure check the histogram. You may have to take a few test shots to adjust the amount of artificial light you add to the scene. One last thing before you start taking photos like there's no tomorrow: check the camera's histogram. The histogram allows you to check the exposure of the image on the camera's LCD screen, and to modify the camera settings aperture, shutter speed and ISO to adjust it at your will. The cool thing about the panning technique is that you can tell a story with a sense of movement.

The idea is to keep your subject in focus while blurring your background. And in order to do so, you have to combine a slow shutter speed while moving your camera. Oftentimes it's a horizontal plane with a moving subject e. But you may want to convey motion along a vertical plane e. The first thing my workshop students ask me is what shutter speed they should use to make their pans. Well, that's the last setting you will decide because it will depend on your subject's speed.

Alternatively, as you get more experience, you can pre-focus on a specific area, lock focus on that area and then press the shutter as the subject arrives in that area. Once enabled, back button focus means that you won't focus half-pressing the shutter. Once you fully press the shutter button you'll only fire the shutter. Instead, you'll focus with a button on the back of the camera — usually the AF-On button.

All you have to do is touch the button, achieve focus and then by taking your thumb off the button, lock the focus. Use the largest f-stop possible smallest f number — the smaller the f-stop, the harder it is to nail the focus. If you intend to do a panning in bright lighting situations, you may have to stop down the aperture so that you can have a slow enough shutter speed.

Using this range of shutter speeds should help you practice the feel and motion. Sometimes a panning shot with everything blurry is annoying to people — something has to be sharp to hold the viewer's eyes in the picture. In this case, choose a shutter speed a bit faster e. Let's say you're photographing a runner. Let me start by saying that nothing can guarantee perfect pans. But if you keep practicing, shoot with patience and get a grasp of the basics, you'll definitely capture dramatic images of subjects in motion.

In theory, panning is easy: set your shutter speed to freeze motion or blur it, move your camera according to the action your subject is doing and snap the shutter. But it's how you handle the details of the concept that will determine the success of your images. Keep pressing the camera shutter to continuously shoot frames as you move along with the subject. Start from a standing or kneeling position, depending on the point of view and composition you have in mind.

If you decide to do your panning standing out, do so with your feet about a shoulder's distance apart. You may also bend your knees. Hold your camera comfortably, in a position allowing you to move the camera and capture the subject accurately.

Rotate your entire upper body while panning, not just your hands; everything from the hips up should rotate. Make sure to do so at the same speed of the subject, in the same direction, while keeping your feet planted firmly. Inhale, hold, and press the shutter as the subject crosses in front of you while continuing to follow them with your camera. Keep shooting and don't stop moving the camera until you've finished pressing the shutter button. While you are moving, don't tilt or wobble the camera.

The more locked-in and compact your position is, the steadier your rotation will be. The theory is fine, but the best way to learn is by looking at examples and practicing while replicating them. That's why I thought that I could help you by showing you a lot of examples, real photos that I've shot myself. The idea is that you learn the logic and decision workflow that led me to capture the long exposure I wanted. So you'll be able to capture any scene, no matter how hard it looks. If you want to learn how to photograph a unique Sunrise, check out our Sunrise photography guide.

As soon as you read our blue hour photography guide you'll be able to capture nature and urban landscapes during blue hour and get amazing photos. As soon as you study our golden hour photography guide your photos of landscapes and cities during the golden hour will become amazing images. Thanks to our Sunset photography guide you'll take photos of amazing Sunsets. I promise! If you need more details, check our photography guide on solar eclipses.

If you want to learn how to capture amazing photos of the Milky Way, study our Milky Way photography guide. If you want to take jaw-dropping photos like this one, you'll find all the secrets in our Star Trails photography guide. In our Meteor Shower photography guide you'll find all the information you need to learn how to capture this type of shots. Throughout this article we've seen that an ND filter allows you to increase the exposure time to create spectacular effects I can get the same effect by stacking shots with a shorter shutter speed.

Whenever possible, I'd rather use an ND filter and have the photo "almost" finished straight on camera. Call me romantic, but I like to face the scene and capture it with the tools I have instead of depending too much on the computer. Having said that, if I forget my lens filters at home or I break one of them , I do take several exposures and then stack them in post-processing.

Sometimes I capture certain scenes by shooting multiple exposures, always using an ND filter in each of them, and then stack them at home. These images require a very long exposure time that could produce a lot of noise. To avoid this, I combine the use of lens filters with the exposure stacking technique and so I can control the potential noise. Let's delve into the exposure stacking technique, its advantages and drawbacks compared to ND filters and how you can get the most out of combining both techniques First, you have to take several pictures.

You don't need to shoot them with a specific shutter speed. At home, load all the shots onto a post-processing software Photoshop , for example and stack them. The resulting image is the equivalent of a long exposure photo with a total exposure time equal or almost equal to the sum of each individual shot. That's why, when I told you that each shot doesn't have to have a specific exposure time, you can decide between two options:. As you can see, after stacking them you get in both cases an image with an exposure time of seconds.

But you haven't captured it exactly the same way. Basically, this technique allows you to get a very similar result to what you would get if you had taken a single second shot. If you want to learn how to stack several long exposures, I suggest you take a look at this two videos:. Some cameras have a function called multiexposure that stacks your pictures directly without using your computer.

Imagine you take 10 photos of 30 seconds each with an ND filter. Once you've captured the last shot, your camera stacks them. The result is a second photo that has a noise very similar to that of a second photo taken with a higher-density ND filter. Like any other photography technique, stacking exposures has its advantages and inconvenients over using an ND filter.

Think out of the box and try different ways of shooting. And in this case, don't force yourself to choose one technique or another. Depending on the situation you're in, combining both use an ND filter and then stack the shots can give you just the result you're looking for.

You're not sure how long you want the exposure to be. Thanks to the stacking exposures technique you can extend the exposure time as much as you want. That is, you can add or subtract shots until you get the photo you want. You're in a location with terrible weather conditions rain, wind, cold, snow, blizzard, Using both techniques you spend less time outdoors and avoid risks during the shooting. Or you may even not be able to take any pictures at all! You want to avoid missing the moment you were waiting for or a special light that lasts a very short time, or even ruin the shooting session because you find yourself in a very changing light situation.

Imagine, for example, a dawn in winter with some clouds and a strong wind. As I was saying, the most important thing is to be flexible and use all the tools and techniques you have and know to adapt to any situation and get the photo you dream of. In section 5 you learnt what a GND filter is and why it's extremely useful to photograph scenes with a high dynamic range.

And in section 7 you learnt how to expose your images using one or several GND filters. But the use of GND filters is not the only way to capture a scene with a high dynamic range. You can also use a technique called bracketing. Bracketing is a technique where you take a certain number of shots generally an odd number such as 3, 5, 7 or 9 of the same image using different camera settings.

The cool thing about this is that you get multiple variations of the same image that you can use partially or combine to ensure that you get the perfect shot. In other words, you can blend them with a post-processing software Lightroom , Photoshop , etc.

In other words, when you take several bracketed shots you can produce a high dynamic range HDR image where the dynamic range of the scene fits. Like any other photography technique, bracketing has its advantages and disadvantages compared to using a GND filter. As I told you at the end of section 11 , use all the tools and techniques you have and know to get the photo you dream of. Although PhotoPills helps you with all the calculations and the results are accurate, if you're learning to use GND filters or you're facing a scene with a very high dynamic range, a bracketing ensures you have the whole scene perfectly exposed.

It can be a safety net. You're in front of a scene where the water is moving. If you only do a bracketing, you'll hardly get two or several identical shots except for their exposure, of course. The water will never come out the same. But if you use a GND filter you can get a very nice silky effect on the water. This way, the shots will be identical and you won't have any problems blending them. Long exposure photography shouldn't just stop at tripods, shutter speed, and waterfalls — and it doesn't.

You can bet photographers like Francesco Gola don't just put their camera on a tripod and choose a long shutter speed. Here are several long exposure photography tips for getting started with this timeless technique. When you buy a 3, 6 or stop ND filter, for example, you'll probably assume that your filter has the exact optical density to subtract light by 3, 6 or 10 stops.

In practice, manufacturers are not entirely accurate. It's been ages since I started using lens filters yes, ages, trust me and I've never bought an ND filter with the exact density that the manufacturer labels. As you can imagine, the difference is usually small but even if it's only a third of a stop, this will affect the shutter speed you need to get the exposure you want.

So in order to avoid mistakes that you won't be able to correct in post-processing, I suggest you test and calibrate all your filters beforehand. As you learnt in section 7 , the PhotoPills Long Exposure calculator helps you quickly calculate long exposure times when using ND filters.

Enter the equivalent settings: Set the ND filter you want to use. If necessary, change the aperture or ISO. And that's it! PhotoPills has done the numbers for you and it displays the shutter speed that you need. And above all, anticipate the position where the Sun will be, taking into account the direction in which you're going to frame and shoot.

To do this, use PhotoPills ;. If you're going to do a very long exposure several minutes , avoid including the Sun in the frame. Keep in mind that the Sun "moves" much faster than it seems. And if the Sun is in your frame, after a couple of minutes its position will have changed significantly in the composition. During part of the year, the Core of the Milky Way is not visible because it's blocked by the Sun.

When planning to shoot the Milky Way , you should. To narrow the search and get faster results, you need to know the starting and ending dates of the best period of the year to shoot the Milky Way. And once you nail your shots, go one step further and try to include Moonlight in the foreground, or even the Moon in the frame Moon trail. As I mentioned in section 3 , if there is Moon , it's much easier to get great results by using the image stacking technique.

Shooting multiple shorter exposures gives you the absolute control over light and, thus, exposure. I prefer using the Planner because it shows me all the information I need in one single screen: Moon phase, Moon elevation and Moon direction on a map.

If, on top of it, i you're using a slower shutter speed because of the filters , ii the camera is on a tripod in a definitely unstable terrain and iii it may be windy at the location You have the perfect ingredients to have a blurred photo. But I suggest you go one step further and use an intervalometer. It has the same advantages as a remote shutter release and you can also program it so that the shutter is open for as long as you need just set the Bulb mode without having to constantly watch your clock.

If you use a remote shutter release, take advantage of the PhotoPills Timer to know when the exposure is over. You'll find the Timer both at the end of the Pills menu and in the Exposure and Time lapse pills. A little reminder. When you're using the Bulb mode, once you press the shutter button, the camera keeps the shutter open as long as you want seconds, minutes Most camera and lens manufacturers offer a stabilization system that reduces the risk of getting blurred pictures when you're shooting in low light conditions and at a slow shutter speed.

This tool can be integrated in the lens Nikon and Canon, for example or in the body Sony, Fuji, Olympus, Panasonic, Pentax, for example. It's basically a series of motion sensors that detect any vibration that occurs and try to correct it. If you're shooting a long exposure, you'll surely have your camera mounted on your tripod if you haven't forgotten it at home. Use a sturdy tripod to prevent any vibration or movement.

The problem is that if you leave the stabilization function turned on, your camera can assume at any time that there was a vibration although there wasn't. And it could have the opposite effect: create a slight movement that will blur the photo. So turn off the stabilization function of your camera or lens as a precaution. It may not happen if you leave it turned on. But just in case, I always turn it off.

You're super excited with what you're witnessing. And you can't help but be nervous as well. You want everything to be perfect because you know you don't have a lot of chances And of course, between working the composition, placing the filters and choosing the settings, you forget that you can play with the ISO! So make sure that you fiddle with the ISO setting until you get the exposure you're really looking for. That is, you increase the exposure time.

In short, your image is not sharp anymore and certain parts may be blurred.

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